Sustainability of Organic Cotton Fabric Dyeing with a Natural Dye (Gallnut) and Analysis by Multi-technique Approach

In this study, six organic cotton interlock knitting fabric were dyed using gallnut (Quercus infectoria Olivier) four of them were treated with FeSO4.7H(2)O as post-mordant. The dyed fabrics were analyzed by different analytical and technical methods such as CIEL*a*b*, surface-pH meter, HPLC-DAD, SEM-EDX, FTIR, fastness and antimicrobial tests. Identified dyestuffs with HPLC-DAD were gallic acid, ellagic acid, and their derivatives. In the all dyed fabrics, the detected elements with SEM-EDX are oxygen, silicon, calcium, and sodium. The iron element was found in four dyeings using post mordant. The highest iron percentage are dyeings with a dyeing time of 30 min. The fastness results were good in general. The test of rubbing fastness was 4-5 in dry and the lowest 3 in wet. Washing fastness was found as 4-5 for all fabrics. The antimicrobial test was also carried out against gram-positive bacterium. The results of antimicrobial test against gram-positive bacterium were determined above 91%. Lastly, the dyed fabrics were analyzed by FTIR for determination of the interaction among dye, mordant metal, and cotton fabric. All the dyeings were initially carried out under laboratory conditions, and then applied to jet dyeing machine as protative and sustainable at large scale.