Influence of vegetable oil on the synthesis of bioactive nanocarriers with broad spectrum photoprotection

Due to their unique features, most nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) in association with vegetable oils that exhibit UV filtering properties and bioactivity could be used in many cosmetic formulations. Therefore, in this work, a new application of pomegranate seed oil (PSO) in the cosmetic sector was developed, based on the synthesis of bioactive lipid nanocarriers loaded with various UV filters by the hot high pressure homogenization technique. To get broad spectrum photoprotection, different UVA and UVB filters have been used (Avobenzone - AVO, Octocrylen-OCT, Bemotrizinol - BEMT). The influence of the solid lipids combined with PSO on the particle size, physical stability and entrapment efficiency was investigated using 8 nanocarrier systems. An improved physical stability and an appropriate size were obtained for NLCs prepared with Emulgade, carnauba wax and PSO (e.g. -30.9A center dot-36.9 mV and 160A center dot 185 nm). NLCs showed an entrapment efficiency above 90% and assured slow release rates of UV filters, especially for BEMT (5%). The developed nanocarriers have been formulated into safe and effective sunscreens containing low amounts of synthetic UV filters coupled with a high percent of natural ingredients. The highest SPF of 34.3 was obtained for a cream comprising of 11% PSO and 3.7% BEMT.